What’s next? Yet another controversial approach during London Fashion Week this year. While the Alexander McQueen show impersonated the delicate, romantic woman, the Gareth Pugh team had a different approach to the subject.. a political one, delivered through a breathtaking show that took place at Freemasons’ Hall in Covent Garden. The most recent runway was all about “an exploration of codes of power, of women with the real power” as Pugh stated. So even though many designers this season have taken on the theme of female power, Pugh has deliciously played with the idea of female authority.
Matthew Stone’s remix of Grace Jones’ Corporate Cannibal together with the location created a “never-to-be-forgotten” atmosphere – undoubtedly. The choice was brilliant and absolutely coherent with the aesthetics of the collection, as the sharp cuts of the garments together with the sinister Hannibal Lecter hockey masks created something that one might call “an homage to power bitches“. Everything was taken to the next level, as every details was taken into consideration (not to mention the models’ cheekbones which were madly accentuated, an idea which is beyond perfection and which contributed to the whole scene, making it much more dramatic – that was the whole point, right?). So why the theme of cannibalism?! The message should be quite clear: nowadays, the world (with a main focus on the fashion industry) seem to be eating itself from within.
So what is there to be seen in this collection? Pugh’s choice to address this topic of female authority led to the creation of wrapped pencil skirts, top-notch camel capes and belted coats, as well as leather motorcycle jackets. Interesting choice.
While the message was supposed to be clear, the interpretation of the subject was not necessarily appreciated to its fullest. As Maya Singer, the contributor editor to Vogue.com commented: “Pugh is clearly staking a claim on fashion major-ness, putting his days as an experimental young gun behind him and entering the capitalist fray.” Nevertheless, “this was a show about how women claim authority in a man’s world. Next time, how about a show imagining a woman’s world?”
Let’s take a look: